Emerald-cut diamond solitaire in yellow gold with a pave band, resting on olive velvet beside a travertine block

Engagement rings in Chicago

Avi The Gem Guy designs custom engagement rings with natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds and colored gemstones like emeralds, sapphires and rubies. Compare individual stones, then design a setting around the one you choose, at our Chicago showroom or on a live video call.

Showroom 5 S. Wabash Ave, Suite 1010 · By appointment or live video

How they compare

StoneHardness (Mohs)Everyday wearPrice for the sizeGood to know
Natural diamond10ExcellentHighestGraded on the 4 Cs, with an independent grading report
Lab-grown diamond10ExcellentMuch lower than naturalSame sparkle and durability; the report states it's lab-grown
Sapphire & ruby9ExcellentVaries widelyColor and treatment drive value; heating is common and disclosed
Alexandrite8.5ExcellentVaries widelyChanges color: green in daylight, red under lamplight. Natural stones are rare
Spinel8ExcellentVaries widelyAlmost always untreated, in red, pink, grey and blue
Emerald7.5–8Good, with a protective settingVaries widelyInclusions are normal; oil or resin treatment is common and disclosed
Aquamarine7.5–8GoodVaries widelyThe same mineral as emerald but far cleaner; heating to deepen the blue is common
Tourmaline7–7.5Good, with careVaries widelyThe widest color range of any gem; often heated
Amethyst & citrine7Moderate; edges soften over the yearsLowBoth are quartz, and most citrine is heat-treated amethyst
Tanzanite6–7Needs a protective settingVaries widelyCan cleave if knocked, and is almost always heated
Opal5.5–6.5Not for daily wearVaries widelyHolds water and can craze; better in a piece worn occasionally

What to look for

Diamonds: the 4 Cs

  • Cut decides the sparkle more than anything else.
  • Color runs from colorless to faint yellow; the setting metal changes how it reads.
  • Clarity only matters if you can see it without magnification.
  • Carat is weight, not size. Two stones of the same weight can face up differently.

Colored stones: color first

  • Color is most of the value: rich and even, not too dark or too pale.
  • Treatment is common and should always be disclosed with a lab report.
  • Origin affects the typical look and price of some stones.
  • Clarity standards differ by stone. Emeralds are expected to have inclusions; sapphires less so.

Popular settings

Any of these works with any stone. For softer stones like emerald, we lean toward the more protective styles.

See all setting styles

Solitaire

One stone held by prongs. Lets the most light in and keeps the focus on the center stone.

Three stone

A center stone with one either side. Adds width across the finger without a halo.

Side stone

Smaller stones set along the shoulders, leading the eye in to the center stone.

Halo

Small diamonds around the center stone. More sparkle, a bigger look, and a buffer against bumps.

Bezel

A rim of gold around the whole stone. The most protective choice, with a clean, modern look.

Vintage

Detail worked into the metal itself — milgrain, engraving, filigree — for a ring that reads as older.

Loose colored gemstones on a bone suede tray with a brass rim, tweezers holding an oval emerald above the Avi The Gem Guy wordmark

Colored stones are our specialty

Most jewelers carry a few colored stones. As gemologists, we buy and grade them individually, so you can compare real options instead of choosing from a catalog. If you're considering an emerald, sapphire or ruby, you're in the right place.

How it works

From first conversation to the ring on your hand. Avi and his team guide you through each step.

  1. Consultation

    Style, budget, timeline, and which stones you're considering. In the showroom or on video.

  2. Choose the stone

    We pull diamonds or gemstones that fit, and you compare them side by side.

  3. Design

    We sketch and render the setting. You approve it before anything is made.

  4. Make

    The ring is cast, the stone is set, and everything is checked under magnification.

  5. Delivery

    Pick it up in Chicago or receive it fully insured, with its grading report.

Engagement rings we've made

See all custom work

He was patient, insightful, and made the unnerving process of getting my wife a 10th anniversary gift a real joy.

Ilan D. / custom piece

See rings in person in Chicago

5 S. Wabash Ave, Suite 1010
Chicago, IL
Monday to Friday, 10am–5pm

Visits are by appointment so we can have stones ready for you. Not in Chicago? Book a live video call instead, and every ring ships fully insured.

Engagement ring questions

Should I choose a natural or lab-grown diamond?

Both are real diamonds with the same hardness and sparkle. Natural diamonds are rarer and cost more. Lab-grown diamonds give you a larger stone for the same budget. We'll show you both side by side so you can see the difference for yourself.

Is a colored stone durable enough for an engagement ring?

Sapphires and rubies are, easily; they're second only to diamond in hardness. Emeralds are softer and usually included, so we recommend a bezel, halo or other protective setting.

Can I buy if I'm not in Chicago?

Yes. Book a live video call and we'll show you the stones under different lighting, send photos and video, then ship the finished ring fully insured.

Can I return a custom ring?

No. A custom ring is made for your stone and your finger, so it can't go back on the shelf — custom pieces are non-refundable. That's why we confirm the stone, the metal and the design with you, and you approve a render before anything is cast. If something about the finished ring isn't what we agreed, tell us and we'll put it right.